Schwartz’s is the name everyone knows, and the line on Saint-Laurent proves it. But the best smoked meat in Montreal is not a one-deli story. The city has a whole network of delis slicing brisket the old way, many of them with shorter waits and decades of history of their own. Here are eight to try when the craving hits.
A bit of context: Montreal smoked meat is cured, spiced and smoked beef brisket, traditionally piled on rye with yellow mustard. Its origins go back to the city’s Jewish delis of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, as Tourisme Montréal’s guide to Montréal smoked meat explains. Schwartz’s itself dates to 1928, but plenty of others have been at it nearly as long.
Some legends are gone: Ben’s De Luxe Delicatessen, founded in 1910 by Benjamin Kravitz on Saint-Laurent Boulevard, closed in 2006. The good news is that the delis below are still slicing, from downtown to the West Island.
The origins are debated: Montreal historian Eiran Harris points to Aaron Sanft, a Romanian butcher who opened the city’s first kosher butcher shop in 1884 and advertised smoked meat.
Best smoked meat in Montreal beyond Schwartz’s
1. Dunn’s Famous (downtown and beyond)
Founded in 1927 by Myer Dunn, Dunn’s is one of the oldest names in the game. The downtown location at 1249 Metcalfe Street is handy before a Habs game, and there is another on Décarie. Beyond the classic sandwich on rye with mustard, the menu includes a Reuben, a smoked meat bagel and even a smoked meat pizza.
2. Snowdon Deli (Côte-des-Neiges–Notre-Dame-de-Grâce)
Opened in 1946 by brothers Abe, Joe and Phil Morantz, Snowdon Deli at 5265 Décarie Boulevard is a classic neighbourhood deli with hand-sliced smoked meat and a loyal crowd of regulars.
3. Lester’s Deli (Outremont)
Serving Montreal since 1951, Lester’s at 1057 Bernard Avenue is full of retro hockey and Expos memorabilia, and its house pickle and yellow mustard are part of the ritual. Find the details on its locations page.
4. Reuben’s (downtown)
On Sainte-Catherine Street West (1116), Reuben’s is a convenient shopping-day stop known for its smoked meat and steaks.
5. Jarry Smoked Meat (east end)
You’ll find it at 6549 Jarry Street East. It made Tourisme Montréal’s list of the city’s smoked meat spots, so it’s worth the trip if you live in the east end.
6. Le Roi du Smoked Meat (Rosemont–La Petite-Patrie)
Find this one at 6705 Saint-Hubert Street. It is another Tourisme Montréal pick and a handy stop if you are in Rosemont–La Petite-Patrie.
7. Chenoy’s Deli and Delibee’s (West Island)
West Islanders have two options on Tourisme Montréal’s list: Chenoy’s at 3616 Saint-Jean Boulevard in Dollard-des-Ormeaux, and Delibee’s at 24 Baie-de-Valois Avenue in Pointe-Claire.
8. Smoke Meat Pete (L’Île-Perrot)
Just off the island at 283 1st Street in L’Île-Perrot, Smoke Meat Pete pairs Montreal smoked meat, ribs and burgers with live blues, according to its website. Worth the drive for a night out.
Know your cut: lean, medium or old-fashioned
Montreal smoked meat uses the whole brisket, fattier sections included, while New York pastrami typically uses the leaner navel cut, Tourisme Montréal explains. At the counter, you will hear three cuts:
- Lean: from the flat, drier and less flavourful.
- Medium: the most popular, mixing lean and fatty meat.
- Old-fashioned: slices between medium and fatty, usually cut thicker.
The classic plate: rye, yellow mustard (skip the mayo), a half-sour pickle, fries and a cherry cola.
And Schwartz’s?
At 3895 Saint-Laurent, Schwartz’s takes no reservations, per its FAQ. The sandwich is listed at $17.25 on the sit-down menu (prices subject to change). Into fries and gravy? See our guide to the best poutine in Montreal.
How to order like a local
- Say the fat level when you order. Tourisme Montréal recommends medium, with extra bread and a dill pickle on the side.
- Most delis do a combo with fries and coleslaw; Dunn’s small sandwich combo comes with fries, coleslaw and a pickle.
- Go off-peak. A mid-afternoon visit usually means a shorter wait at the busiest delis.
Want more Montreal classics? Settle the great debate with our St-Viateur vs Fairmount bagel showdown, find the best bars to watch the Canadiens after your sandwich, or browse our Food section. Bon appétit!
Bell Centre-bound after Dunn’s? Read up on the Canadiens’ Heritage Classic weekend before puck drop.
More on MTL365
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- Game Day: Canadiens vs Blues in St. Louis as the Habs Look to Keep the Road Trip Perfect
- Winter Tires in Quebec: The Dec. 1 Deadline, the Fines and What Actually Counts
- More Montreal food on MTL365
Photo: Mixwell / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
Sources: Tourisme Montréal, Dunn’s Famous, Snowdon Deli, Lester’s Deli, Smoke Meat Pete, Wikipedia, Schwartz’s
