As the frost of a long Montreal winter finally begins to recede and the first hints of April sunshine hit the pavement of Saint-Laurent Boulevard, there is a specific kind of magic that returns to the city. The terraces aren't quite open yet, but the "Main" is buzzing with a renewed energy. We call it "The Main" for a reason, it’s the spine of our city, the cultural heart where the French and English worlds collide over plates of mustard-slathered brisket.
If you’ve lived in Montreal for more than five minutes, you know that the "Smoked Meat Showdown" is more than just a food review; it’s a spiritual debate. For decades, two titans stood directly across the street from one another, locked in a culinary duel that defined the Plateau. We’re talking about the legendary Schwartz’s Deli and its long-time rival, The Main Deli.
But before we dive into the juicy details, we have to address the elephant in the room, or rather, the ghost on the street. In May 2023, the city’s heart broke just a little bit when The Main Deli Steak House permanently closed its doors after nearly 50 years. C’est vraiment dommage. However, just because the physical doors are locked doesn't mean the debate is over. To understand the "best" smoked meat in Montreal, you have to understand the rivalry that shaped the standards of our world-class food scene.
The Heavyweight Champion: Schwartz’s Deli
Walk down Saint-Laurent on any given Saturday, and you’ll see it before you smell it: the line. Rain, snow, or the humid heat of July, there is always a queue snaking down the sidewalk. Schwartz’s Deli is arguably the most famous restaurant in Canada. Founded in 1928 by Reuben Schwartz, a Jewish immigrant from Romania, this place is the definition of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
The vibe inside is chaotic, cramped, and utterly charming. You’re likely to be sat shoulder-to-shoulder with a stranger at a communal table while the waiters, who have seen it all, yell orders over your head. It’s fast, it’s loud, and it’s pure Montreal.
The Meat: Schwartz’s uses a secret blend of herbs and spices for their rub, and the meat is cured for ten days. When you order a "medium," you’re getting a stack of brisket that is perfectly pink, rimmed with a melt-in-your-mouth layer of fat. It’s heavily spiced, with a distinct peppery kick that lingers.
The Pro Tip: Don’t even think about asking for a menu. Just tell them "medium, fries, black cherry soda, and a pickle." C’est tout.
The Local’s Secret: The Main Deli (Rest in Peace)
While the tourists were busy standing in line across the street, the locals, and even Leonard Cohen himself, were often found sliding into a vinyl booth at The Main Deli. The Main was the "chill" younger brother to Schwartz’s frantic energy. It offered a full menu, including steaks and poutine, but the smoked meat was the undisputed star.
For many, The Main wasn’t just a backup; it was the superior choice. The atmosphere was relaxed. You could actually sit down, have a conversation, and take your time. There was a sense of warmth and personal attention that Schwartz’s often sacrifices for speed.
The Meat: Reviewers and "meat-heads" often argued that The Main’s meat was more tender and better seasoned. It had a slightly less aggressive spice profile than Schwartz’s, allowing the natural beef flavor to shine through. It was often described as being less dry and more consistently sliced.
The Verdict of the Past: Before its closure, many blind taste tests actually crowned The Main as the winner. It was more affordable, more accessible, and arguably more flavorful. It represented the "soul" of the neighborhood, while Schwartz’s represented the "icon."
The Science of the Sandwich: Why Montreal?
You might be wondering, "What makes Montreal smoked meat different from New York pastrami?" It’s a fair question, but don't ask it too loudly in a deli unless you want some side-eye. While pastrami is typically brined and then smoked, Montreal smoked meat is dry-cured with salt and spices, then smoked, and finally steamed to perfection.
The result is a texture that is vibrantly tender. It’s a "meat meets magic" situation. Whether you’re at a legendary spot or a hidden gem, the criteria for a perfect sandwich remain the same:
- The Bread: Rye, always. Lightly mustard-coated.
- The Stack: It should be high enough to make your jaw hurt, but structurally sound.
- The Fat: If there’s no fat, there’s no flavor. Period.
Where to Get Your Fix Now?
Since we can no longer cross the street to The Main, where should a hungry Montrealer go for a top-tier experience? If you’re looking to explore beyond the classic Schwartz’s experience, the city is still brimming with incredible options.
If you find yourself in the West End, you absolutely must visit Snowdon Deli. It has that classic 1950s diner feel and many locals swear it’s the best in the city, hands down. Their meat is sliced with precision and the service is as "old-school Montreal" as it gets.
For those closer to Outremont or Mile End, Lester’s Deli is a vibrant extravaganza of neon signs and incredible brisket. It’s been a staple since 1951, and it captures that neighborhood heart that we lost when The Main closed.
If you’re stuck in the downtown core and need a stress-free lunch that hits the spot, Reuben’s Deli & Steaks offers a world-class experience with a slightly more upscale vibe. And of course, we can't forget Dunn’s Famous, which has been serving up late-night cravings since 1927. They are open 24/7 at their flagship location, making it the perfect spot for a post-concert "5 à 7" that turned into a "2 à 3 AM."
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Final Thoughts: The Spirit of the Main
The rivalry between Schwartz’s and The Main wasn't just about food; it was about the identity of a street. It was about the hustle of the immigrant experience and the culinary heritage that makes Montreal one of the greatest food cities in the world.
Every year, as we approach the warmer months, we see a surge of visitors coming to witness the "magic" of our food scene. While we mourn the loss of The Main Deli, its legacy lives on in every debate we have about who has the best spices or the perfect fat-to-meat ratio.
So, next time you see that long line in front of Schwartz’s, you have a choice. You can join the ranks of history and wait for your turn at the counter, or you can venture out and discover the "new" Main: whether that’s a small deli in your own borough or a classic institution like Snowdon.
Montreal’s smoked meat scene is vibrant, resilient, and always delicious. Bon appétit, tout le monde!
If you have a favorite spot that we missed, or if you want to share your memories of The Main, submit your story here. We love hearing from the heartbeat of the city.
Stay hungry, stay local, and keep exploring everything MTL365 has to offer!
